ETFs CFDs-Handel Beliebte ETFs Plus500

Low/Zero commission online broker comparison

I was trying to find the lowest cost brokers that aren’t just mobile apps that offer passive investments in the assets I’m looking for on top of the usual equity and bonds I already have.
I’m hoping this will help people in my situation. I looked for a comparison website and found: which helped but I still had to dig around to get the direct comparison I needed all in one easily visible table.
What are your thoughts and experiences on the below brokers like customer service etc with these platforms?
Trading212 looks to be the cheapest and best all round but I’ve read bad experiences.
To diversify my portfolio I’m looking at:
  1. Renewables funds,
  2. Commodities,
  3. Individual shares and Crypto (a very small gamble 1% of total)
  4. Property dev/REITs,
  5. Venture capital,
  6. Higher risk corporate Bonds,
1 - 4 Can be invested in via ETF’s offered by most of the online brokers below.
4 - 5 Can be invested in using the other platforms below: Crowdcube, Seedrs, Syndicate room, Crowdproperty.
1 and 6 I think need higher cost traditional brokers like HL/Black rock etc but I’m not sure.
Here’s my comparison:
Free trades per month Products Fees (deposit etc) FCA Regulated? Bank transfer or debit card?
Trading 212 Unlimited Stocks ETF/ETCs Forex Crypto ISA Free ISA, no trade fees, CFD account has charges inc: 0.5% currency conversion charge, no forex fees Yes Debit card: Yes - Bank transfer: Yes
TD Ameritrade Unlimited $0 for US stock $6.95 for non-US Cannot find on FCA register Cannot find on FCA register
eToro Unlimited Stocks ETF/ETCs Forex Crypto Commodities via CFD’s No ISA - $5 withdrawal fee - Deposit and withdrawal fee of 0.5% - exchange fee (50 pips) 0.5cent/$1 e.g $7.5 on $500 - If no activity for 12 months charged $10 per month - 0.75% fee to buy bitcoin Yes Debit card: Yes - Bank transfer: No
Freetrade Unlimited Mobile app only Stocks ETFs ISA ISA £3/month 0.90% forex fee Yes Debit card: No - Bank transfer: Yes
Revolut 3 Mobile app only Stocks Crypto Commodities No ISA Complex fee structure Yes Debit card: Yes - Bank transfer: Yes
Degiro Unlimited Stocks ETF Funds Bonds Options Futures Crypto No ISA High fees (complex structure) Yes Debit card: No - Bank transfer: Yes
Other investment platforms:

Investment type Fees (deposit etc) FCA Regulated? Pre-emption rights?
Crowd cube Venture capital 1.5% Yes No
Syndicate Room Venture capital High fees 2% set up fee 1.5% – 2.3% annual 20% performance fee Life-time management fees of between 12.5% and 24.3% Yes Yes
Seedrs Venture capital 7.5% of any profit Plus variable sale fees Yes Yes
Crowd property Property 0% fees however returns capped at 8%. Yes N/A

Have you used any of these before or do you have alternatives?

submitted by Final_Cause to UKPersonalFinance [link] [comments]

Brokervergleich Tabelle

Da der Brokermarkt momentan sehr dynamisch ist und viele neue Player dazukommen, habe ich begonnen, eine Vergleichstabelle zu erstellen. Diese ist noch nicht vollständig und wird sich in den nächsten Wochen und Monaten wahrscheinlich noch stark ändern. Daher lade ich euch alle ein, miteinander etwas Ordnung ins Chaos der verschiedenen Anbieter zu bringen, indem wir diese Google Tabelle gemeinsam bearbeiten.
Interessante Broker:
Vergleich im Bezug auf:
Noch ein paar gute andere Posts von u/Rainer74:
Vergleich Wertpapier-Orderkosten
Großer ETF Sparplan-Kosten Vergleich
Deutsche Banken/Broker - Who is who ?
Trade Republic vs JustTrade vs Gratisbroker vs Freetrade vs Nextmarkets vs Plus 500 vs Robinhood vs Degiro
submitted by JudgementOfTheCrowd to mauerstrassenwetten [link] [comments]

Brokervergleich Tabelle

Da der Brokermarkt momentan sehr dynamisch ist und viele neue Player dazukommen habe ich begonnen, eine Tabelle zu erstellen. Diese ist noch nicht vollständig und wird sich in den nächsten Wochen und Monaten wahrscheinlich noch stark ändern. Daher lade ich euch alle ein, miteinander etwas Ordnung ins Chaos der verschiedenen Anbieter zu bringen, indem wir diese Google Tabelle bearbeiten.
Interessante Broker:
Vergleich im Bezug auf:
submitted by JudgementOfTheCrowd to Finanzen [link] [comments]

What I learned: Introduction to investing

Valuable information for new investors
Warning. Looooong post. TL:DR in the bottom.
Recently I have been chatting a ton with people who are very new to investing. I don’t claim to have mastered anything, however I have been able to help a lot of people through chats and messages. I’ve given advice and answered questions, and through that I found out a lot of problems new people run into, and decided to compile some of the points I found important. I will start this with the primary compiled information I usually give people when prompted, and then move on to specific questions I found important. A final note is that this is my own opinion and views, so feel free to disagree! I’d love input, even if I feel confident about this advice.
First off I’d recommend searching for posts about starting out & learning the basics, both here and on other investing/trading subreddits. The question has been asked hundreds of times, and you’ll find some amazing answers if you look.
The first thing you need to understand is that finance is all about information. If you want to learn, you need to take in information. All of the information. Books, news, financial statements, press releases and earning calls. Read everything. You will find hundreds of words you don’t understand, so look them up (investopedia have a majority of them). In the beginning you will struggle, however, as time goes by, you will start to understand. If you do not like reading, learn to like it. There is no way around this. If you find yourself investing without reading tons, you are going to lose.
Books to recommend: Anything written by Warren Buffet, A random walk down wall street by Burton Malkiel (how I started), Stress test by Timothy Geithner & The intelligent investor (“thick” but all important).
Pick out your favorite company in the world, and check if they are public. If they are, head over to their investor relations page and read the transcript to their latest earnings call. Read their financial statement (10-Q). If you don’t understand a word, look it up. This is frustrating but required. This method of reading, finding things you do not understand and looking it up (and learning it), will be the absolute unavoidable key to improvement.
There are 3 things you should consider buying as your first investment:
Large cap companies. These are the most risky you should consider buying. These large companies (Apple, Banks, Microsoft, 3M, JnJ, Walmart and the like) are stable, but can for sure give you a great return.
Specific ETFs. An ETF is a basket of stocks, often with some sort of focus. It gives you instant diversification. The specific ETFs are less risky than the single stocks, but hold risk nonetheless. Specific ETFs are baskets of stocks of varying number, letting you buy one security, and get a tiny portion of many companies. This lets you bet on a sector. Say you think that robotics and automation is the future, you can bet on that by investing in $ROBO. Other examples of these are $KWEB, chinese e-com, $FNG, media and tech, $ITA, aerospace and defence and $SOXX, semiconductors. These let you invest in a promising industry, without having the risk of a single company failing.
Lastly, and by far the best choice, is indexing. These are ETFS like $VOO, $VTI, $VWO and $VOOG, and is a way to take on the least amount of risk while still gaining along with the market. You get a wide basket of stocks, focusing on things like the S&P500 ($VOO), which is an index of large (minimum 6.1 billion USD) US companies. Historically , you can expect 7% annual gain here. That’s realistic. Anything offering much more than that without risk has tons of risk without disclosing it, per definition. $VOOG indexes growth companies, focusing less on the giants and more on the up and coming. $VWO focuses on emerging markets, getting places like brazil, russia and all over asia. Indexing is by far the best choice, and will very often gain you a steady growth. The final and great choice is $VTI, which is the global basket which contains the market as a whole.
Remember, if you have to ask simple questions, you should be indexing. Asking questions is very important and a great way to learn, however, you should not make specific investments unless you can make the call 100% yourself with confidence. If you are not sure, you are making a mistake in purchasing.
Lastly, and honestly most importantly, here is a list of things you should ALWAYS be able to answer before buying a security, equity or derivative:
  • Why am I getting this instead of an index? Where is the upside?
  • If the stock goes up, what action do I take? When do I sell? At what price or % gain.
  • If the stock goes down, when do I sell? At what % loss or a price.
  • What risks are there? How does the worst case realistic scenario look like?
  • Why am I making this investment right now? Is there a better time?
  • What exactly am I buying?*
And finally, always, without exception, perform your own Due Diligence. Don’t take advice from other people without understanding the situation yourself. If you have to ask questions, you should not own the equity. Ask about what you do not own. If you have to ask questions about an equity you already own, you have messed up, and should rethink your strategy.
A last but VITAL note is to keep a journal. You should note down every stock purchase you make or decided to not make, noting down the stock, price, date and answers to the 6 questions. This will help massively over time, where you can look back how you felt before and why you made decisions. It helps to keep temporary emotion out, as well as self reflecting which is the most vital learning method of any craft.
Should I buy cheap stocks like $XXX for 4 dollars per share, or expensive stocks like $YYY for 500 dollars per share? IT DOES NOT MATTER. The price of the individual share have no effect whatsoever on the price of the company, how much you will gain or how much risk there is. If you buy 10 A-stocks for 1 dollashare, and if you buy 1 B-stock for 10 dollars/share, both these purchases are EXACTLY the same, in practice. If stock A gains 10% you earn $1.00, if stock B gains 10% you earn $1.00. Then the stocks are valued at $1.1 and $11 respectively. But there is no different. Don’t let the price of the share fool you. The only thing that matters is the market cap, which is the (number of shares*price of 1 share). The market cap is the cost of ALL the shares in the entire company. Some stocks like being expensive to seem exclusive and expensive, but it’s really the company's choice.
What numbers matter the most for the companies so I can compare? Well, that's complicated. DIfferent investors value different things. Some value P/E (price per earnings) and some value margin changes. You have to decide for yourself what matters, which leads to tons and tons of reading. Really, if you don't like reading and analyzing, this isn't something for you. Look at ETFs then. As a rule of thumb, 1 or 2 numbers is not enough to gauge the HUGE and COMPLEX being that is a corporation, so don’t get caught on something like P/E. Compare everything.
Will I be able to profit? Probably. As a new investor, especially a young one, will see both success and failure over time. This is natural. I recommend investing a smaller amount of money. Either you will gain a few % and be excited to learn and continue, or you will lose a few % and you find the ultimate opportunity to analyze what your mistake was.
Is $XXX enough money? Probably. It depends on your broker and fees. Any amount invested into the market is great, and a 10% increase is a 10% increase no matter how much you invest. Depending on your broker though, it might be easier or harder. With high commission, a smaller amount will be eaten by fees. With smaller amount, some expensive stocks (see $BRK.A) might be out of your reach. This shouldn’t be too much of a problem though.
What broker should I use? The best one for you! Hard question. It is country dependent. Look around. You want low commission and any perks you require. To start out, depending on how much money you have to invest, look for low-commission brokers. $0 - $3 is a good range per stock purchase. If you pay more than 2% on your investment, you lose 2% to buy in. This would generally cause stock to not be worth to buy. So do some thinking on your own, to invest you will have to get used to it. Some brokers let you buy partial shares as well, which might be a plus if your capital is low to buy the more expensive stocks.
What should I invest in? There are so many things! Like said above, cheap funds and common stock are good places to start. They are the core of investing, and should be your start. After that, move on and understand bonds. It will be all important during your career in investing. On top of that there are warrants, options, forex, commodities, and all kinds of additional derivatives. Stay clear of those completely until you can confidently make the call to try it out.
My stock increased/decreased in value. Should I sell?
Asking this question means that you weren’t thorough enough when you made the purchase. You should always have it written down on a paper. When do you get out? A valid answer is never. If you believe in the business and they prove themself strong, why ever sell? Some people like selling if they gain 30% or lose 30%. Some do the same on 15% respective 10%. It comes down to how much long term faith you have in the company, when you’ll need the money and what your risk tolerance is. Personally, when I buy a company, I will ignore it until something changes in the core business. I re-analyze each company each earning. It takes a lot of time, but its my method. If I buy something more high risk, I will sell at a set loss-% (20-40% loss) and the same on gain.
How does taxes work and how should I plan for taxes? Taxes are hard and complicated, but it is something you must understand how it works. Capital gains taxes are vital to understand. Sadly, they work differently in each country, so there is no easy answer except for you to look up it yourself. But know it, it is vital.
To end, these are the most important 4 rules of learning how to do all this:
  • Read. Everything.
  • Keep a journal and record the answers to all 6 questions each time you make a purchase, or decided in the end to not.
  • Each time in your reading if you come over a concept, word or idea that you do not understand, get used to looking it up and learning what it is. It’s key.
  • When you succeed, analyze if you got lucky or if your actual reasoning was the correct call. When you fail, analyze what your mistake was and write it down in your journal. Both are vital.
TL:DR: Investing is about reading. You should probably start by reading this now or give up. If you read it all, success! Keep going!
Disclaimer: Don't invest money that you can't afford to lose. You might lose all your funds. Probably don't.
submitted by lykosen11 to StockMarket [link] [comments]

My experience with Norbit's Gambit [google sheets link included]

Just want to share my experience doing Norbit's Gambit, for anyone that may want to learn on my experience, or tell me all the ways in which I am wrong.
I've posted a question earlier, asking how to make sure the market didn't swing in the wrong direction. And yes, I understand it's called a "gambit" for a reason.
=== TL;DR === - Wanted to save $65 on currency conversion while buying CAD $3,500 worth of US stock - Overestimated forex fee, underestimated NG cost - Murphy happened... - Lost potential gains of CAD $185.80 while waiting - Is the gambit ever worth it?
=== The goal === - On August 25th, use about CAD $3,500 to buy some US Netflix (NFLX) shares
=== The method === - Buy DLR in CAD - Call brokerage to journal over to US side - Sell DLR.U in USD - Buy NFLX with USD
In a lot of my research, I've been told the "fee" when going through the brokerage (Questrade in my case) is 2%. That's not too accurate.
=== The brokerage Forex rate/fee === So I assumed 2% of $3,500 would be $70.
However it's really an addition of 199 basis points to the exchange rate. I believe they use the closing exchange rate on the date of the transaction.
So if the exchange was 1.2500, it's 1.2699, and $CAD 1000 nets $USD 787.46 ($USD 12.54 short of ideal $USD 800). If we convert 12.54 to CAD, it's $CAD 15.68 or 1.568% on the original $CAD 1000.
But if the exchange is 1.2200, it's 1.2399, and $CAD 1000 nets $USD 806.51 ($USD 13.16 short of ideal $USD 819.67). If we convert 13.16 to CAD, it's $CAD 16.06 of 1.606% of the original $CAD 1000
The "conversion fee" is dependent on the exchange rate, but I can't figure out a quick direct way to calculate what the "fee" would be in source currency %. The closest guesstimate is to divide the basis points by the current exchange rate, as below:
On August 25th, the exchange rate was 1.2483. So the above guesstimate for the Forex "fee" would be $55.80. Or more accurately $54.91, close enough. Still, that's 21.5% lower than the broad *$70** estimate earlier.*
=== The NG effective fee === Here once again, the common consensus is that the NG's fee is just a cost of buying and selling an ETF. So, with QT's free ETF purchases, the guesstimate is just about $5 for the selling commission.
When I bought DLR ETF on August 25th, I got it for CAD $12.42 per share (that's not the day's close price, but what I actually paid). the US side of DLR.U is always US $9.93. The gives the DLR Exchange Rate of 1.2508... already different from the ideal 1.2483 (I suppose that's how the ETF makes money)
So, it would appear the cost/fee of NG is just CAD $0.99 + US $5.94 (CAD $8.40)... but not quite. Let's look as the actual US dollar amounts. Since we can only buy whole shares of DLR + ECN fee, from this point I am converting CAD $3,502.44 + $0.99 = $3,503.43
The difference between the ideal US $amount and what I am left with is the "fee" for doing NG. US $12.24, or CAD $15.28. This sets the NG's Effective Exchange Rate as 1.2538 or a "NG's fee" of 0.44%. Please note that this rate/fee is *based on the converted amount*: the more you convert, the less/cheaper it is.
So comparing the actual cost of NG vs QT's auto conversion and the guesstimates is quite different - Actual $15.28 vs $54.91 ($39.63 spread) - Guesstimate $5 vs $70 ($65 spread)
=== The Time factor === Now that I have US $2,794.32, let's buy some NFLX. The date now is Sept 5th (yes, the NG completed earlier, but I am human... also QT didn't call me when the journaling was completed so I got sidetracked).
Before doing the NG, I calculated that NFLX dropped about 2.02% in 10 days. It could also go up by same amount. That 2.02% rise on CAD $3,500 value would be a gain of $70.7... comparable to $65 guesstimate loss of doing currency auto-conversion through QT (QTAC). So in my analysis, at worth case it would be a wash, in best case I save some money on NG. ... We already know now that the actual cost of QTAC is much less ....
This was the end result of my NG: spent CAD $3,503.43 and 11 days later I have a US stock+cash Portfolio of value US $2,789.37
But considering the increase in NFLX stock over those 11 days, what if I would have just went with Questrade's Auto-conversion (QTAC) route?
In 11 days, the value of NFLX is @178.79 - Current value of 16 NFLX shares = US $2,860.64 - Plus cash US $77.57 for a Total Portfolio Value of US $2,938.21
If, on August 25th, I would have auto converted currency with QT and bought NFLX, I would have a portfolio value of US $2,938.21 on September 5th.
Instead, starting the Norbit's Gambit on August 25th, I bought NFLX on Sept 5th and have a portfolio value of US $2,789.37
Instead of saving a guesstimate of CAD $65, I have lost potential gains of US $148.84 or CAD $185.80
=== Murphy... or Loonie... whatever === In all of above, I tried to keep the currency fluctuations isolated. So apart from initial conversion on August 25th, all my future (September 5th) portfolio values were in USD. But as Murphy would have it, the BoC rate announcement made the loonie stronger in between my NG.
Based on above, doing QT auto-conversion - On August 25th, nets US $2,762.52 - On September 5th, nets US $2,817.62 I would have got US $55.10 more just by doing the QTAC later.
If I would have bought NFLX on September 5th after doing QTAC - 15 whole shares @178.79 + $4.95 comm leaves me with US $130.82 in cash - Total NFLX + Cash portfolio value of US $2,812.67
That's still US $23.30 more than doing the NG, although still less than just buying NFLX outright on August 25th and letting it grow.
=== Final conclusion === Smaller amount (CAD $3,500) for NG for a stock purchase that could/did swing 6% was not worth it. Loonie getting stronger also made the whole exercise fruitless, but even eliminating the currency fluctuation, the growth of the stock outperformed the savings of NG.
Playing with my numbers, assuming the currency fluctuation is fixed, for CAD $3,500, doing Norbit's Gambit vs Questrade's Auto-Conversion is breaking even when the stock appreciation is no more than 1.18% during the time it takes to complete NG (11 days in my case). Even if you are more punctual and can complete it in 5 days, you still need to make sure the stock doesn't appreciate more than 1.18% in 5 days.
By comparison, if converting CAD $10,000, it's break even if stock rises 1.27% during that time. When doing CAD $50,000 then 1.31%
Hmm.... so even at high amounts of CAD $50,000 the tolerance to stock fluctuation is pretty low. So is it worth it?
Ultimately I've:
For anyone that cares, here is public Google Sheets docs to verify my math (File -> Make a copy, in order to edit values)
submitted by hydraSlav to PersonalFinanceCanada [link] [comments]

PART 1 Lesson 2) Products

In this short part, we will look at the majority of products you can invest in. This is no NO WAY an exhaustive list; in fact, if you were millionaire, you could very well "invent" a new product. However the products below resuem 99% of actively traded items.
The most obvious are stocks. When you buy a stock, you buy a share of the company and of its future profits. At the most simple level, this is exactly what buying a share is. Stockholders own the company and not the opposite. If you have a company and go public, even if you're the CEO, you do not OWN the company anymore (unless you own 50%+1 stock of the company, we will see why later).
Stocks are the instruments you will invest in the most UNLESS you specialized in another field since they are so simple, relatively low-risk and have no expiration value. If your grand-mother had bought 10 coca-cola shares in 1945 and forgotten about it, they would still be valid today.
There is much to be said on shares. One important concept is the concept of dividend. Dividends are cash OR stocks that are given to shareholders. Not all stocks pay dividends. The dividends theory is vast and complex and will be checked in Part 3.
Another one is the concept of split / reversal. When a stock splits, your number of shares increases. If you have 10 shares and the company does a 10:1 split, you now own 100, magically! However, this does not increase the value of the as, you guessed it, the stocks will go down 90%. Miller and Modigliani were the first to bring this theory up. The reverse operation is a reverse split; 10 shares become 1. We will see later that stocks usually increase after a split, and decrease after a reverse split, due to market psychology (part 3)
The last concept we will talk about is the buybacks. A company may buyback its shares - or a competitor might buy the company by buying 50% +1 shares (see this like an election; if you own 50% + 1 votes, and there are only 2 options (yes or no) you effectively control every vote and thus the company). Buybacks always increase the value of the stocks UNLESS they are below market value; usually, buybacks will be much above the market value.
One last concept: if you are certain a company is going up, you buy the stock. But if you think it is going down, what do you do? You short the stock. This concept is very important. By shorting the stock, you BORROW the stock from someone who already holds it and sell it, with the promise of buying it later, preferably at a lower price. With stocks, the maximum you can lose is 100% of your investment; in a bankruptcy. With shorting, there is no limit to what you can lose. If you short the stock at $100 and it goes to $1,000, you just lost $900 per share! Shorting is very dangerous, although very lucrative. The best scenario in a shorting is if the stock reaches 0, where the money you got by selling short the stock is entirely yours.
Stocks really deserve their own chapters; however, this is a rough introduction to the subject.
Options There are many times as more options traded as stocks. Options are extremely popular product.
With an option, you buy/sell the right to buy a stock later at a fixed price. A call is the OPTION (not the obligation) to buy Google at $500 at any time by november 22, for example.
Options are very complex. The most-traded options are calls and puts - options to buy at a fixed price, and option to sell at a fixed price. There are two types of calls/puts: european and american. European options can only be exerciced at a fixed date; american options can be exerciced at any time until the fixed date. AFTER THIS FIXED DATE, THE OPTIONS ARE WORTHLESS
So far we have checked companies. What if you want to invest in gold, or oil? Since the stock market is electronic, buying the gold and having it kept somewhere is not possible (it is possible through a bank) since stock markets do not have vault. If you want to invest in commodities, you could buy companies that hold a large amount of that commodities, but this is risky, and can cost a lot.
In a future - another type of derivative product, similar to a forward - you buy the OBLIGATION to buy a product at a fixed date, at a fixed price. You are FORCED to buy oil at $80 a barrel on november 22. Naturally, not everyone wants to take physical delivery of the commodity; most of the time, the futures is settled by cash.
Futures are settled every day; every day, one party pays the other. If you bought a future and the price of the item went down, you pay the other party.
Forex is for currency exchange. You buy or sell a pair of currency - USD/CAN for example. In this example, you BUY USD by SELLING CAN.
Futures options
Options we saw above, but applied to futures and not stocks. Stock futures exist too.
Bonds are exactly what we saw in chapter one. Simply said, it's a debt that pays X% per year, the yield. It might not pay anything until expiration (zero-coupon) but usually, it will pay semi-annual coupons.
Mutual Funds
A funds that holds many products. For smaller investor, mutual funds allow a diversification. If you have $1,000 for example, you cannot buy a diversified portfolio at a resonable cost. Mutual funds are simply pools where everyone chips money in, to invest in a particular field (china stocks, energy, banks, USA...). In my opinion, mutual funds charge a lot and 90% of mutual funds do worse than the stock market.
You won't trade a SWAP, although it pays to know what it is. A SWAP is another derivative product whereas two parties exchange payment. One will agree to pay a fixed cost, another will agree to pay a variable cost (for example).
Stocks traded on the stock market, similar to Mutual Funds, allowing exposition to a more focused product (Oil ETF, Gold ETF, etc)
Products you will rarely hear of. Forget it.
This is a rough introduction to MOST of the traded products on the investing market. As a beginner, you will only trade stocks. You can lose 100% of your capital on options (on stocks too, but hopefully you will make nice picks ;)). Plus, generally speaking, over a long period, stocks always go up. We will look later at how to choose stocks.
submitted by daytrader2010 to Investing101 [link] [comments]

Plus500 Scam Plus500 Review ETF  ¿Qué son ETF? Plus500 - CFD  Demo + Bonificación 25€ sin depósito Capital en riesgo PLUS 500 Start Trading with €20000 Demo Account How To Trade With plus500 Plus500 - YouTube

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Plus500 Scam

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